EXPLORE THE
WORLD OF JERSEY CHEESES IN ASHEVILLE
Reynoldsburg, Ohio (May 13, 2008)—Six cheeses
having but one thing in common—that they are made from milk produced by Jersey
cows—have been selected for a guided tasting June 25 in Asheville, N.C.
The tasting, part of the program for the 2008 annual
meetings of the American Jersey Cattle Association and National All-Jersey Inc.,
will be conducted by Jeffrey Roberts, principal consultant for the Vermont
Institute for Artisan Cheese and author of the acclaimed Atlas of American
Artisan Cheese.
Included are two cheeses among the “elite 200” featured
in Cheese: A Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best by Max McCalman,
maître fromager for Artisanal Premium Cheese of New York City.
The first is Orb Weaver Cave Aged Farmhouse Cheese, made by
two pioneers of farmstead cheese production, Marjorie Susman and Marian Pollack
of New Haven, Vt. Lauded by McCalman for its “slightly tangy buttery flavor
and springy texture,” Orb Weaver placed first in its category at the 2000
American Cheese Society competition. That same year, Susman and Pollack
constructed a cave in which to age Orb Weaver. The results, according to critic
Marian Burros of the New York Times, were a “revelation.” Cave-aged
Orb Weaver was described as “deeper yellow, much firmer and dense with a
robust, complex array of earthy flavors.”
The other is Thistle Hill Farm Tarentaise, made by John and
Janine Putnam and family of North Pomfret, Vt. The aged alpine-style raw milk
cheese is made from certified organic milk produced by grass-fed Jerseys.
Notably it is made using traditional methods in a copper cheese vat that is
essential to developing the proper flavor. The vat is the only one of its kind
in Vermont, one of only a few in the United States, and was custom built for
Thistle Hill Farm in Switzerland. McCalman admires the “dense, complex”
Tarentaise for its “subtle nutty flavor that establishes a large, lingering
presence on the palate.”
Four rising stars will complement these well-established
Jersey cheeses on the plate.
The first is Vache Santé from Bittersweet Plantation Dairy
in Gonzales, La., selected for one of eight American Artisanal Treasure Awards
in 2007. In English, its name translates as “Holy Cow,” a fitting
description for the
triple cream (75% fat), bloomy rind cheese. Vache Santé is
aged from 10 to 12 weeks in order to build flavor characteristics while
remaining firm, making it a culinary wonder for chefs like company owner John
Folse.
Blue Ridge Dairy of Leesburg, Va., will be represented by
its fresh mozzarella. Paul Stephan, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of
America, cultures pasteurized Jersey milk produced by Jack and Stacey Kahler,
Keymar, Md., then stretches the curd by hand to produce 8-ounce balls that are
either sold fresh or applewood smoked. Blue Ridge’s farmhouse mozzarella
placed third in its category at the 2002 American Cheese Society competition.
Representing the host state of North Carolina will be
Hickory Grove, a raw-milk, aged cheese made in the monastery style by Portia
McKnight and Florence Hawley at Chapel Hill Creamery, Chapel Hill, N.C. It’s
stating the obvious to call it “unique,” given that its aging process
includes the use of pine needles to develop the rind. Hickory Grove has a
semi-firm, lacy texture that David Auerbach of the Durham Independent Weekly says
makes for a cheese that is “delicious on its own, with apples and as a melter.”
Rounding out the plate will be Berkshire Blue from Michael
Miller at Berkshire Cheese Makers LLC, Lenox, Mass. As the story is told, after
Miller retired as publisher of the Berkshire Eagle and sold the
newspaper, he searched in vain for a blue cheese that suited his palate. A
licensing agreement to use the recipe and cultures developed by Dr. Alan
Duffield of Somerset, England resulted in Berkshire Blue, which won a Gold Award
at the 26th World Cheese Awards. Weekly production ranges from 60 to
210 three-pound wheels.
Seating for the tasting, which begins at 4:00 p.m. on June
25, is limited to 100 persons. Tickets are $15 each and must be purchased in
advance. Roberts’ seminar on artisanal cheeses produced with Jersey milk will
precede the guided tasting. It begins at 3:00 p.m. and is open to the public.
Both events will be held at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, located
at 1 Resort Drive in Asheville.
The North Carolina Jersey Breeders Association is the host
for the 2008 national Jersey meetings. The schedule and registration forms are
available at www.ncjerseybreeders.com, and also on the USJersey web site at
www.usjersey.com. Early-bird registration and hotel rates are available until
May 23.
The
American Jersey Cattle Association is the oldest dairy breed organization in the
United States, organized in 1868 to improve and promote the Jersey breed.
National All-Jersey Inc. was formed in December of 1957 to promote the increased
production and sale of Jersey milk and milk products. For more information,
visit USJersey.com or call 614/861-3636.
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